… Will love the journey to the “official” home of Joulupukki! (AKA Santa Claus). And the best part? An overnight train ride on the Santa Claus Express to Rovaniemi.
As I stepped on that train, sixty years of wisdom and dignity crumbled as my inner child burst out (I can hear my friends laughing – “what dignity?”) Excitement, anticipation, and sheer joy. It had long been a dream of mine to go meet THE man in Finland and it was finally coming true. You couldn’t chisel the grin off my face.
The tiny cabin I booked had two bunks, complete with duvets and pillows. The interior cabinet opened to a wash basin, complete with running water. (Not for drinking!) You can also book cabins with a private bathroom and shower, or even pet friendly cabins, complete with a paw sticker on the door.
As my train left Helsinki Station close to midnight, I decided to dine in, ordering from the restaurant menu found in the cabin. I changed into my red and white flannels, opened a small carton of chardonnay I had packed (not a typo! Finland has 500 ml stubby cartons with a pour cap. Picnic size!) I curled up on the bottom bunk and gazed out the window as we slowly left the station – and waved at the people on the platform. Snow was gently falling, and I realized that this would be one of those moments I will never forget.
After my meal and a few stops, I made my way to the large, clean washroom, then headed back to my cabin to brush my teeth into bed and snuggle in under the cozy duvet. The gentle rocking of the train sent me off to a deep sleep, my head filled with sugarplums and gingerbread (sugary dreams for a sugar overload?).
I woke up to darkness, with just a hint of the sunrise to come. After a quick trip to the loo and a bit of a clean up, the breakfast I had pre-ordered the night before was served. Relaxed and caffeinated, I watch the sky develop into shades of pastel pinks and blues, painting the heavy snow cover into a winter wonderland. Yeah, trite, but there is no better way to describe the beauty of the landscape. Traditional Finnish red log houses offered a quick shot of color as we sped by.
Almost 12 hours later the train pulled into the Rovaniemi.
I would recommend that you hit the tourist center first. It is well stocked with brochures and the staff can fill you in on the various tour companies. As I hadn’t booked anything ahead of time, my choices were limited, so if there is a “must do” on your list, book ahead!
The Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) were not going to show over the next few nights, so I spent the first afternoon and evening exploring and shopping at Santa’s Village. It is a quick bus ride from the train station and no prebooking is required. Save a bit of money and don’t book a tour! The return price (paid to the bus driver) is seven euro. Santa Claus Bus Rovaniemi to check out stops and timetable.
And yes, I met the old guy himself. The entrance to Santa’s workshop took me through a maze of rooms and hallways, each with Christmas movie worthy settings. I actually turned around and walked through again! Then at the bottom of a sweeping staircase, you hear it. That famous jolly old laugh. Now, this is no store Santa, and it was easy to forget he wasn’t real (or was he?). Our chat was truly enjoyable and amazingly in-depth.
Off to the shops! I loaded up with Finnish Tonttu, the little wood Christmas elves with red knit caps (and they don’t require nightly escapades!) I said hello to the reindeer and enjoyed hot chocolate. I also checked out the glass igloos on site. A stay in one was beyond my budget though – even if the Northern Lights were expected. But who knows. Maybe one day?
The next day I took a tour to a reindeer farm that had been run by the same family for generations. We had a tour of the farm, were educated on the importance of reindeer, and then had a one-hour sleigh ride through the forest. Each of the reindeer had a different personality and mine seemed to be a bit of a smart ass. The sleighs were loaded with furs and wool blankets, keeping me warm. The ride itself was a magical experience and a few actually fell asleep in their sleighs! It was that peaceful. Afterwards we were treated to hot juice, Finnish spice cookies and more information on the reindeer. I am now the proud owner of a Reindeer Driver’s License.
Many come here to see the Northern Lights. They are fickle! So, Drive a dog sled, go ice swimming, have a sauna, try cross country skiing – and keep the fingers crossed that the Aurora will shine on you. I wasn’t so lucky, but the overall experience was amazing – and so much fun.
My inner child can’t wait to go again!